Sunday, January 24, 2010

Flower Power and Coffee Talk

Two weeks in Paris seems like one month, but I'm passing the time with such meaningful activities like: yoga classes (of which I've taken 2-- one in French and one in American honking/gurgles that sounded like it should be Frenglish but wasn't), consecrating my friendship with the Kiddos on Facebook, overcoming my fear of opening the manual Metro doors by myself, getting lost a lot (but not enough), and applying what I'm learning about the Parisian day-to-day to my own life. Last week, I was busy walking the wrong direction in the Marais, one of the livelier sections of Paris, when I happened upon some inviting rose petals sprinkled on the sidewalk outside a restaurant door.
Just lovely.
I really couldn't stop thinking about it, either. So when the sun came out a few days later, it reignited an idea I had while finding my way a few days prior.
That morning, I searched a few of my guides and then hopped on the train to Place de Madeline to shop one of the few marchés aux fleurs (flower markets) I could find. I had decided then that Aurélie, my friend and hostess for the first 3 weeks here, needed to walk in the door later that evening and be surprised with some roses that resembled the sun with which I was so in love that day. So, I took some orange tipped long-stems home and arranged them in a vase I decorated with the yellow twine I requested from the florist. I trimmed the blossoms, placed them so that they were the first thing Aurélie would see as she walked in, and, as a final touch, sprinkled the trimmed petals and leaves onto the (now very charming) welcome mat outside the apartment door! I was proud of my new, almost Parisian self, and Aurélie was as surprised as she was thrilled. A+, Nico.

* * *

In other news, I'm discovering how American the rest of the world is and how American I really am, irrespective of how I think I act. Many Parisians speak English quite well, and about as many know American culture and history just the same. I suppose I was really hoping for a happy exchange of cultural norms but am finding I'm usually the one doing the learning. A French friend of mine explained it well when he said that American culture is really a second culture for most of the world. This, I guess, explains why I had such an informed conversation about les cougars with a (Frenchie) friend of mine the other day. Suffice it to say, we did not talk about wild cats.
Speaking of cats, I've been meaning to post a silly story I've been telling many of my friends here. It's about my first time making coffee in France, which doesn't intuitively have much to do with the feline species but almost certainly did when it was explained to me that American coffee is often referred to in France as pisse de chat (cat urine). Apparently, American coffee is a little weak and requires
more per pot than the average French one. My first morning here, I underestimated the strength of the coffee grounds and made it so strong that it stayed the same dark color even after adding cream. A little funny but definitely not potable. After a few genuine, nervous, and also self-deprecating laughs, I remade it all with fewer scoops, and it came out just fine.
What also came out in better proportion was my sense of self as both a product of my imagination but also as a sum of my little, repetitive, American behaviors. My first time shopping for groceries, which was before my first time making coffee, I was searching for milk at one of the (rather small) super markets here. There was no % milk so I guessed at the type I bought. Adventurous enough, I thought. When I returned home, I recounted my 'wild' story to Aurélie, who giggled at me and explained that French milk only comes in 3 kinds: whole, skim, and half-skimmed (whatever that means). I suppose I could say something profound about how I felt about my 'self' after my milk shopping experience, but I think the coffee story does ok.
I told my new friend, Ben (one of the Kiddos), that in France it seems to be the little things that are very important. Whether it's always introducing yourself individually to each member of a group of strangers or making a nice looking, well-proportioned plate for yourself at one of only 3 meals (this is how, Aurélie says, the French stay thin), little things seem to be very important even in a large city like Paris.
I'm really liking my stay so far here, but it is certainly an effort on my part to be open to making many mistakes and looking confused and ridiculous. Strangely though, it's kind of nice to be reminded that you're not as smart as you used to think. Well, as long as you're making progress. And as long as it's not constant.
In that respect, though, I guess it really is the little things that are counting, because little by little, I'm finding out how to adapt, and at this same rate, am still surprising friends with flowers and taking milk in my damned good coffee.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Flat Tires and First Class

Flying to Paris has been a dream of mine since I was 10. I've been joking with people at Brown telling them this means that this dream is at least 17 years old. It's kind of funny when you tell it to "the kiddos" (Brown undergraduates) and the adults at least my own age who work with them. How Alanis Morrisette, then, (isn't her career around the same age as my dream?) that I went all the way to the plane, arranged my things and myself, and made friends with my seatmate when the plane got a flat tire. Trumpet fanfare.
I guess I never really thought I'd have to evacuate a plane because of a flat tire. But I did, and so did everyone else. I thought, "This should be no big deal, right? They'll just call AAA or whatever..." So, I got a beer with my new, fellow travel reject and waited until it was time to reboard.
1 beer later, the flight got canceled. Shit.
But not to worry! Those of you who know I'm right now in Paris know that it worked out alright. I guess the rest of you now know that, too. Haha.
Here is a photo of the friend of a friend's place at which I stayed (I was kind of stuck...thanks Jacob for calling your Harvard boi, Andres. Oh, and thanks Andres for the hospitality!)
The next day, Andres took me to dim sum at this place in Boston's Chinatown that was once a very fabulous theatre (it was my treat, of course).
I spent the rest of the day at South Station because it was warm, the Silver Line was right there (it goes direct to Logan Int'l in 10 min.), and the internet was free. After I arrived at the airport, I went directly through security (1. because it wasn't crowded, and 2. because I was already checked in from my reroute the day prior). AND THEN I made a beeline for the US Airways first class lounge with my first class ticket to Paris!I guess my soothing voice and charming wit worked with the check-in agents the night before. "This is the only way to travel for the broke/charming!" I thought. Too bad I was only there long enough to suck down 2 glasses of white and suspend my contract with AT&T.
The flight was great--I slept flat on a plane for the first time ever. And yes, I did use my complimentary toothbrush and sleeping mask. Nobody talked to anyone, and no babies were crying, which was really enough for me -)
When I landed, my friend Aurélie picked me up and introduced me to the speed life of Paris by taking me first to her place to drop of my bags (she lives near the Arc de Triomphe ...uh, wow) and then directly to a brunch with her friends. After about an hour and a half, I used the Passe Navigo that I bought at the airport to take the Metro home for a nap, and I felt good about being able to find my way in a strange, new city.
I know I'm a little behind in my posting, but don't worry--I've got lots to tell and ça arrive! I'll leave you with some images I saw through my sleepy eyes my first day or so in Paris. It does seem kind of like a dream...

At Charles de Gaulle: Aurélie with my bags and first croissant in France.


You know, rolling across the Champs-Élysées to get home.


Incredibly, I pass this everyday to get to the Metro.


Zoom, zoom...and fade to gray.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

French Origins

So, I decided to start a blog because I'm moving to Paris for 6 months, and I wanted to let my family and friends know about my European situation. I also hope to continue posting when I return to the U.S. later this year for my last year of undergrad. Exciting, right?
I don't really have any explicit goals in mind for this blog save to entertain a few people with the ridiculous way my brain processes the ridiculous things I see. I suppose this would also be a great space to log some of the adventures I (think I) experience. Sometimes they are fabulous to just me. Sometimes others think they are cool, too. Frequently, they are at least surprising. Now that this is public, I guess we can all be some kind of judge.
Lovely. Then, here it goes for both of us--the little story I tell myself that I live as someone unexceptionally broke but extraordinarily charming :)